John Baron and his team at Xpats International treated us like Royalty from the moment we walked out of the airport until we were dropped off on our return. We combined a private 8 day hike via the Lemosho route followed by a 3 day Safari with 2 nights in the Serengeti and a half day drive through the Ngorongoro on our return to Arusha. We also had a spare day at the end of the adventure and John kindly drove us around Arusha showing the highlights including a Tanzanite exchange and the cultural heritage centre.
We stayed at the Greenside Hotel in Arusha which is about 45min-1hrs drive from Kilimanjaro airport. The hotel was chic, clean and the staff invariably welcoming and helpful. We had a briefing that evening in the hotel and then departed for the Lemosho gate via bus with some members (porters and guides) the following morning. It was a several-hour drive with a fair level of dust and diesel pollution, but largely over paved roads until we got closer to the park. We had quick stops along the way to pick up the rest of the crew. In total, we had 2 guides and 10 porters to support us. And support us they did! It was extraordinary and they hauled everything up the mountain to the various camps. This included a portable toilet, a table and 2 chairs, sleeping cots and obviously the tents and supplies. The tents were tall, comfortable and included an enclosed sleeping area as well as a sort of anteroom where we could eat.
We knew we had a good team as every evening we’d hear them all joking and laughing despite the physical duress that they were subjected to each day. The characters included, “Happy” the chef, Andrew our main guide – who by the way has climbed Kilimanjaro over 150 times and was a well-versed botanist -, Daniel our quiet-spoken 2nd guide, Sam-Willis, a porter who accompanied us to the summit, “Mr Happy New Year”, an exuberant lad on his first trip in the National park and many more hard working troopers. Together they kept us pointed in the right direction, dismantled and packed everything, passed us on the rugged terrain and then set up everything at the next campsite before our arrival. Just incredible and not one of them appeared to find it physically overwhelming. In contrast, you’d pass many porters in other groups who clearly were struggling to cope with the elevation and topography. Speaking of the terrain, it was diverse and magical. You pass through 5 ecological zones on your way to the summit from rainforest to arctic and although the hikes, distance-wise, appear short, there are lots of ups and downs and you will get a good work-out each day. However, everything is preamble to the final climb where you will get up before midnight and climb more than 1.3 kilometers in elevation in about 4.5 kilometers distance from Barafu camp ~4500m to Uhura peak at 5895m. It is strenuous, cold, exhilarating and rewarding but not technical at all (i.e. no ropes/crampons needed) and the views at dawn are unbelievable. The descent is also not for the faint of heart and if you proceed down to Mweka camp at about 3050 m directly, your quads and knees will protest. One last shout out to the Xpats team: without them, it is doubtful we’d have summited and, in fact, we felt a responsibility to do so on their behalf.
For the safari, be prepared for some robust driving. Xpats arranged for a well-maintained Toyota land-cruiser with pop-up top and an experienced guide/driver (most of the safari tours use the same vehicle). We drove from Arusha to the Ngorongoro crater park on our way to the Serengeti on paved roads. However, once you enter the park and all the way to the Serengeti it is unpaved and you will get bounced around. Nevertheless, the vehicle managed this with ease and was equipped with snacks, drinks and comfortable seats. We eventually arrived at the Karibu ‘mobile’ Bush Camp in the South of the park. You will stay in a tent that is more like a hotel room replete with shower, flushing toilet, vanity, 4 poster bed, sofa and views of the wildlife nonchalantly doing their ‘thing’ within feet of the tent. The camp also came equipped with a bar and dining room. And here we thought the camping on Kili was ‘glamping’!
As for the wildlife, the sights and sounds of the Serengeti are impossible to put into words. In addition to the big 5, we documented seeing well over 30 species, often up close and personal, that otherwise you’d only see in a zoo. By and large they were utterly unconcerned about our presence and just got on with their business of sleeping, killing, eating, copulating and taking care of the kids. On the return journey we ventured into the Ngorogoro crater which is like it’s own self-enclosed safari park of 250+ sq Km. Again, just a draw-dropping experience with the only major difference being that you were confined to the trails in contrast to the Serengeti where you could venture almost anywhere the land cruiser could travel.
So, to conclude, we can’t thank John and his Xpats team enough for their efforts. They made this once-in-a-lifetime experience, educational, meaningful and utterly memorable.